Luce is a small Italian restaurant and grocery on East Burnside in Portland’s Kerns neighborhood, run by chef John Taboada, who also owns nearby Navarre. Diners come for handmade pasta, short seasonal menus, and a quiet room that suits a long, unhurried dinner.
The space is compact and simply furnished, with shelves of imported pantry goods, dried pasta, olive oil, and Italian wine lining the walls. You can buy these to take home. The menu is brief and changes with the seasons. Expect a few antipasti, several fresh pastas, and one or two entrees that follow what Oregon farms are producing. Plates are portioned for sharing, so couples often order several and pair them with a bottle from the retail shelves. Service is low-key, and the cooking favors restraint over flourish, which has made Luce a steady favorite with Portland food writers and neighborhood regulars.
Visitor Highlights & Practical Info
Seating is limited, and weekend evenings fill quickly. Arrive early on a weekday for the best chance at a table without waiting. Hours and reservation policies have changed over the years, so check Luce’s website or call before you go. TriMet bus line 20 runs along Burnside and stops close to the door. Street parking is usually manageable. After dinner, you can walk east to Laurelhurst Park or catch a late film at the Laurelhurst Theater.
